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Creality Ender 6

£680.00Save £10.00

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The Creality Ender 6 is brand new to the Ender series with a large build volume. The metal frame has been completely redesigned with acrylic glass covers on the sides, which ensure more stable temperatures in the print chamber and thus significantly improves the print quality and printability of exotic materials.

**We supply a custom built printing profile for the Ender 6 to give the best results out of the box**

High printing speed and precision

Compared to conventional 3D printers, the Ender 6, according to the manufacturer, achieves a printing speed of up to max. 150 mm / s and a precision of 0.1 mm. This is possible thanks to the stable Core-XY structure with new high-quality components.

Intelligent features

The Creality Ender 6 is equipped with a filament sensor and a resume print function. If the filament accidentally runs out or an unexpected power failure occurs, you can easily and conveniently resume printing. This saves you valuable material and time.

In UK Stock
(1 customer review)
Model Ender 6
Manufacturer Creality
Format FDM
Motion System Core XY
Extrusion Type Single Nozzle
Extruder Format Bowden metal dual drive
Filament Diameter 1.75mm
Compatible Materials all nonabrasive materials under 260°C nozzle temp
Nozzle Type 0.4mm brass
Nozzle Compatibility Creality nozzles
Build Volume 250mm x 250mm x 400mm
Print Surface Ceramic coated glass
Max Nozzle Temp 260°C
Max Bed Temp 100°C
Interface Colour touch screen

 

Extra Features:

Filament run out sensor

Power outage protection

Higher speed than bed Y cartesian

Partially enclosed reducing interference from ambient moving air

4.00/5
1 review for Creality Ender 6
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  1. richrowe328 (verified owner)

    Early impressions of the Creality Ender 6 are very good. For context I’ve only been using it for a day and a half, but I’ve had a previous 3D printer since early 2015 so I have some experiences to draw comparison with.

    It comes well-packed, Creality have clearly thought things through when you see it fitted into the box in dense foam packing with well-fitting cutouts for all the parts. All the parts have a nice finish and are absent bits of ‘factory rash’. Cut pieces of aluminium section are clean and straight, so that suggests a non-chaotic factory that likely produces repeatable results. It’s also kind of smart in an industrial way.

    You have to assemble it, yet assembly is really just a case of putting the vertical bits (the frame uprights and the build plate holder/z-axis) in between the pre-assembled top and bottom, then plugging in the wiring. It’s well illustrated in the booklet.

    I only had two little niggles when putting it together:
    -The bottom part (with the power supply and control board inside) wasn’t quite flat, and rocked quite a bit. I loosened the corner bolts a tiny bit, pressed it straight against a known flat surface, then re-tightened the bolts.
    -When putting the sides on, the right hand side (the one with the holes) has an obvious front and back. The left side (no holes) will fit on to the printer either way around but only one way is correct. The rear edge should protrude about 3mm past the rear upright to overlap the edge of rear panel, the front edge should be flush with the upright. Guess how I that found out…

    It’s pretty quiet in operation – I’ve only used it at regular speed (50mm/s) so far. Fan noise is the most intrusive part, I plan to make a top hat then re-assess if I want to change one or both hot-end fans for quiet ones. I have a dB meter and from 1m it was just registering about 47/48dB in regular printing, hitting 51/52dB when it performs a rapid transit of the hot-end to a new spot.

    Bed levelling was fairly easy – I didn’t get great bed adhesion at first with 80gsm paper but a piece of that super-thin stuff like fan-fold invoices are printed on meant the nozzle got just that bit closer to the glass build plate. I swapped out the bed springs for silicone spacers bought from another vendor (18mm tall with a 4mm hole) and simultaneously gave myself a very firm bed support and paid for 1/2mm of altitude for the next flight of Jeff Bezos’ rocket. I haven’t had to re-level the bed since getting it ok.

    Straight out of the gate I’m getting lovely quality prints – I always thought the more common way that most 3D printers work, by moving the whole heated bed and the print back and forth was silly. I think really the hot-end should move in both X and Y, which attracted me to this machine (plus the large 250x250x400mm build volume). So far my prints from this Ender 6 are very precise looking, making my previous printers prints look a little bit out of focus by comparison.

    I changed a few things while I was assembling it:
    – Moved the filament inboard. Pointed the filament spool holder to the inside, and switched the filament detector around to the other side of the bracket it was attached to. Partially done to save space (the spool holder adds about 70mm width to an already big printer) but mainly to get the cat from getting ideas.
    – I moved the extruder up to the top rail to get it closer to the hot-end and shorten the Bowden tube. Extruder is now bolted to some slightly filed down M5 nuts slid into the slot in the rail to the right of the z-axis rails. This means the Bowden is only about 2/3 the length it would have been otherwise. Had to make a standoff block (12mm thick) so the extruder motor wouldn’t foul the z-axis limit switch. The offcut of Bowden tube is now between the filament sensor and the input hole of the extruder, to make the filament bend gently from vertical to horizontal. I bought a Capricorn Bowden tube from Wedge3D with the printer but exposed the original supplied one to the possible danger involved in cutting the Bowden to move things around.
    – I thought the internal cabling looks messy in all the photos I’ve seen, especially in the area by the spray connector. I put nice braided sleeving over everything and even turned the X and Y steppers through 90 such that the sockets point to the back for neater wiring. I also didn’t like that ridged tube Creality have put the wiring to the hot-end through. It’s too short, looks cheap, stiffer than I’d like and I don’t like the way they intend it to be crushed into a holder/bracket at each end. I replaced that with braided sleeving too, all the way from the hot-end right up to very close the spray connector. Fitting all the sleeving took a while but it was satisfying to do and proves it’s quite possible to make the machine look really nice.

    So – a solid 4 star rating so far. 1 star dropped partially for naturally untidy wiring but mostly because I believe the extruder should have been designed to be placed up top in the first place, and the tube enclosing the wiring to the hot-end is a little bit like an after-thought on what is otherwise an impressive machine. It’s only been up and running since yesterday, so I can’t comment on reliability and wear etc.

    • Stuart Wedge

      Thank you for your comprehensive post about the Ender6 It is very much appreciated. – Stuart

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